I particularly enjoy when I’m presented with unique food projects. In this case, I have been asked to prepare dinner for a local couple and their 30 guests in celebration of their 10-year wedding anniversary. Their wedding was held in Florence, Italy, and I have been asked to re-create their Florentine menu: Risotto with Chianti wine, Radicchio and Pecorino Romano cheese; Tortelli pasta with Duck Sauce and Pistachios; Bistecca alla Florentine with Wild Arugula and Salmoriglio Sauce, Cantuccini with Vin Santo.

One of the “contorno” or side dishes I am asked to re-create is a Tomato & Fennel Gratin. I only had a title from their menu to work from. I experimented with a couple of variations, and ultimately settled on this Tuscan-style version using a classic ‘besciamella’ the Italian version of the French béchamel. I served it to the clients during a tasting of the menu, and they were thrilled with it, as was I. A wonderful use of peak of season tomatoes and finished with fresh bread crumbs! Perfetto!

Tuscan-Style Tomato & Fennel Gratin

5 – large, ripe red heirloom tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/4-inch slices
5 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and thinly sliced, fronds reserved
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons Tuscan Spice Blend (see below)
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs (see procedure below)

Tuscan Spice Blend: Combine the spices below in a grinder and process until finely ground.
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Fresh Breadcrumbs: Trim the crust from a loaf of Italian Sweet Batard. Cut the bread into large cubes. Place in a food processor and process until bread is coarsely chopped. Transfer the crumbs to a sheet pan; drizzle and toss with olive oil. Place in a 350˚F oven for 15 – 20 minutes, turning once until lightly browned.

For the Gratin:
• In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the fennel, onion, garlic, and spice blend; sauté, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Prepare the besciamella: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter and add the flour. Whisk together to form a paste. Add the milk and chicken stock and 1/4 cup of the finely chopped fennel fronds. Whisk constantly over medium heat until the sauce thickens. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

• Prepare a 9 x 12-inch casserole dish with olive oil. Place 1/3 of the fennel/onion mixture in the bottom of the dish. Next, add a single layer of sliced tomatoes and a generous sprinkle of the cheese. Drape with a layer of the besciamella. Repeat the layers with the remaining ingredients finishing with the last of the fennel/onion mixture. Top with fresh breadcrumbs.

• Place the casserole dish in the 350˚F oven and bake until the sides are bubbling, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.

Serves 8 – 10

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